Step-By-Step Guide to Flipping a Dresser
So you find yourself wanting to spruce up your space with some new furniture. But your dream is quickly snuffed when you head over to Pottery Barn and realize the dresser you want is $3,500. You have an old and outdated dresser, but it just doesn’t fit the vision for your room. Odds are your old dresser is solid wood with good bones. It may have scratches from years of wear and tear but we can work with that. I am going to guide you step-by-step on how to turn that old dresser into your dream $3,500 Pottery Barn dresser, but at a fraction of the cost.
Getting Started: Tools and Supplies
Here is a list of the supplies you are going to need. Everything that is underlined is a link to the products I have used and would recommend.
Safety gear: I have seen one too many eye injuries as an ER nurse so I highly recommend safety goggles when sanding and using power tools. I also suggest wearing a respirator for particulates or at least a face mask at minimum because sanding kicks up a surprisingly amount of dust that contains who knows what. Paint and stains can be impossible to wash out, so wear clothing you don’t mind getting messy in and gloves to keep your hands clean.
Drop cloth and rags: Protect your workspace with a drop cloth. I use this re-usable canvas drop cloth to minimize plastic waste. Also these shop rags are a staple in my workshop.
Cleaner/Degreaser: You can use any TSP cleaner and degreaser. I typically use Krud Kutter to clean my piece before sanding and painting.
Screwdriver and power drill: These will come in handy for disassembling the furniture, removing and putting on hardware and drawer pulls, drilling new holes for your new hardware, and simple repairs. You don’t need anything fancy. I recommend this affordable and reliable Ryobi Power Drill and Drill Bit Kit. If you are keeping the old hardware, you don’t need to go out and by a power drill because you will not need to make new holes. You can just use a simple screw driver.
Sandpaper/Sander: You don’t have to purchase a sander for your project. But this Ryobi orbital sander is what I use and like if you want to save some elbow grease. When I first started I just used this sanding block which still got the job done. I recommend getting various grits of sandpaper or block like 80, 120, 240 grit.
Paintbrush or Roller: Some people swear by rollers and some swear by paintbrushes. I am loyal to the paint brush. I love this Zibra Furniture Refinishing paint brush set, with the Palm Pro being by absolute favorite. These brushes have held up over the last two years. Just make sure to clean them with dish soap and water thoroughly after each use.
Paint, Stain, Primer, and Top Coat: Picking out paint and stain is the fun part! I have experimented with a few different types and I have a whole separate blog post for you to check out about different paints, the brands I recommend, and different stains, primers, and top coats I like as well. Click here to head over to that post.
Accessories: Painter’s Tape is important if you want clean lines and a more professional look. Blocks to set your piece of furniture on. I have used these Painter’s Pyramids or even just scrap pieces of 2x4 lumber. If you want to get fancy, I have been using these little Tri-Dollies so I can easily turn and move my heavy furniture.
Prepping is Key
The key to a good and long lasting finish is the prep. DO NOT SKIP THIS! Prepping is my least favorite part of furniture flipping but I promise it is worth it. Used furniture holds a surprisingly about of grime and grease which will prevent your paint from adhering or can even bleed through your paint.
I like to take a ‘before’ photo because seeing the transformation is fun.
This dresser was from my parents’ house and they wanted a new dresser in the cottage.
The first thing I do before cleaning the piece is take the drawers out. Please take my advice and number your drawers as you pull them out so you know exactly where they go in the end. This is coming from previous experience trying to fit the drawers back and couldn’t figure out where they go because they were so similar in size but different enough to notice they were in the wrong spot.
Next remove all hardware. If you are re-using your drawer pulls, I like to put everything in a container so you don’t misplace any screws or small pieces.
Now it’s time to give everything a good clean. Even though I am not painting the insides of the drawers or inside the dresser, I still wipe it all down because it’s probably quite dusty. I recommend using a shop vac or this little hand vac.
Next you want to clean all surfaces that you plan on re-finishing with a grease cutter. Spray it on and wipe it off with a damp rag. I try to not let the grease cutter dry on the surface, so I work in sections instead of spraying everything at once.
Also be sure to get in the nooks and crannies that you will be refinishing but that’s where grease and dirt like to get stuck.
Make sure to change your rinse water periodically. It gets super grimy!
While cleaning everything this is a good time to look over the details of your piece and look for any repairs that need to be made or scrapes and dings that need to be filled in.
It’s now time to make the necessary repairs. First, this broken drawer slide will be an easy fix. I couldn’t fit my drill or screwdriver in the back of that drawer, so I used wood glue.
To make sure the drawer slide is lined up squarely so that my drawer would slide in and out smoothly, I used my handy-dandy quick square. I used the drill, because it was heavy and within reach at the time, to set on the drawer slide while the glue dries. Just follow the instructions on the bottle for dry time.
Next, use wood filler to fill in all deep scratches, dings, old hardware holes (if you plan on replacing with new ones), and any wear and tear that you found when inspecting your piece. I use a popsicle stick or my fingers. I’ve also used a putty knife.
This is a good place for a break, since you want to allow the wood filler to fully dry before sanding.
Let’s Talk About Sanding
You want to sand down all of your wood filler until it feels smooth when you run your hand across the surface. You can get away with a 220 grit for this. For the rest of the surfaces you plan on painting, a scuff sanding is all you really need to help the paint adhere, and you want to use a finer 220 grit paper to ensure a smooth finish. If your piece has a lot of scratches but they’re not deep enough for wood filler, I recommend going over it first with a 120 grit then following it with a 220 grit. The more time you spend on sanding over the scratches, the smoother and more finished your piece will look in the end. Also remember to wear a mask when sanding to protect those lungs.
It is possible to keep the natural look and not paint over the wood. I sometimes paint the body and drawers of the piece but keep the top natural exposed wood. I’ve also sanded the whole thing down to natural and put on a more modern stain color, not painting it at all. I will have a separate post on that process. I start sanding away the old varnish and stain with a 120 grit sandpaper. It is important to not sand too hard because a lot of the time you only have a very thin veneer to work with, and a cheaper, not as pretty looking wood or even MDF underneath. Once you break through past the veneer there’s no going back, so just take your time lightly sanding. After you clear off the old finish, go over it lightly with a 220 grit so it’s nice and smooth.
Now that you have everything sanded, wipe all of your surfaces you will be painting or staining with a rag. I use a tack cloth to minimize the little specks of grit that might get stuck in your paint.
Almost Ready to Paint
Few more steps before it’s time to paint. I know, I know, it’s a lot more involved than you thought. But trust me, it will be so worth it in the end!
This is where you should mark and drill your new hardware holes if you are replacing the drawer pulls. I have a separate post on tips and tricks to doing this. I swear by this hardware jig to make your life easier when installing new drawer pulls. If you save this step until the end, you risk marking up your freshly painted surface.
Next, tape off your edges that will be exposed. I tape off my drawer fronts because clean lines when you pull open the drawers will make it look that much closer to that Pottery Barn inspo piece.
Primer
Primer isn’t always necessary but I always use it to be safe. The purpose of your primer when painting furniture is to block any tannins that will bleed through, especially when painting lighter colors. It is also to ensure your paint adheres to your piece and lasts years to come. The stain blocking primers can be expensive. I have had good luck with KILZ Original Primer.
To apply you can use a brush, but I use a small roller because it’s quick and easy, filling in the nooks and crannies with a brush. Follow the instructions on the can for recoat time. Give it two coats. I try to let it dry overnight giving it time to cure before painting.
Finally Time to Paint
I am making a whole separate blog post about the different types of paints, brands I like, and my experiences through all of the trial and error. You don’t have to spend a lot of money of fancy paints. I like to use chalk and mineral paint. But for this dresser I used Behr Marquee in Sage Gray, and painted with my favorite Zibra Palm Pro Furniture paint brush.
Paint is meant to self-level, meaning the brush strokes usually level out as long as you do not overwork the paint too much. This means go back and forth with the paint on the brush only 2-3 times in each section. It’s ok if you can see through the paint on your first coat, it will start to look better after coat number 2. I like trying to only paint in one direction because it leaves the best looking finish in my opinion. The biggest thing is to try to not go back over it until it’s fully dried.
Another tip, watch for areas like this for drips and paint globs. It you accidently miss a drip spot and let it dry you can sand it down, but it makes like easier to pay close attention while painting. I attached a few pictures of common places drips happen.
For recoat time, follow the instructions on the back of the paint can. Allow it to fully dry before recoating. Also sand down any drip spots. Typically you only need to paint two coats, sometimes three if it’s looking streaky. I also put my brush in a plastic baggie and store it in the fridge between coats.
Again, follow instructions on the back of the can for dry time.
Time for Finishing Touches
If you are using chalk paint, you will need to put on a clear top coat. Or if you are painting something that will get heavy use like a dining room table and chairs, I suggest a clear top coat. Just make sure you find a water-based top coat. You can refer to my post about primers, paints, and top coats for more info. On this dresser, I did not do a top coat because Behr Marquee is a pretty durable paint.
Next, I rub wax into the drawer slides to make them feel as good as new when sliding in and out. I really like this Howard Feed-n-Wax, and it smells citrusy and fresh.
And You’re Done!
And that’s it! It’s time to enjoy your new piece of furniture. On the back of the paint can it will tell you a cure time, usually it’s around 2 weeks. This means you want to be gentle with your newly painted furniture until it’s fully cured to prevent scratching or chipping the paint. If it does get dinged, just simply dab some paint on it and no one will even know.
One last thing I recommend doing is taking a final picture of your finished product. It’s always fun to compare the before and after.
PS. I will make a separate post on how to make this more modern dresser base.